American Glass Guild Discussion Board Home
Home Search search Menu menu Not logged in - Login | Register

Tuck joints vs. butt joints
 Moderated by: Rebecca
 New Topic   Reply   Printer Friendly 
 Rate Topic 
AuthorPost
 Posted: Tue May 10th, 2016 02:11 pm
   PM  Quote  Reply 
1st Post
Krueger
Senior Advisor
 

Joined: Sat Oct 7th, 2006
Location: Hartland, Michigan
Posts: 2658
Status: 
Offline

  back to top

A reader is asking.....I have a poll to take on leaded glass specifically... Lead tucking. Who tucks their lead and how, who just butt joints, and why. I do a mix per application, but do much less tucking. Getting ready to do quite a few diamond lights and am playing with structural less tucking to reduce bars. Thoughts? I very rarely tuck painted work unless it's to join sections in a very tall window.



 Posted: Tue May 10th, 2016 02:28 pm
   PM  Quote  Reply 
2nd Post
artfem
Founder


Joined: Mon Oct 9th, 2006
Location: Annandale, New Jersey USA
Posts: 305
Status: 
Offline

  back to top

There are many reasons to tuck joints, but you only tuck joints with flat leads. 1st, it gives you flexibility in size. If you are running small, you can open up the panel a bit without opening the solder joints. 2nd, when you tuck the leads, you get a sweated joint rather than just an edge connection of the two leads. Due to surface area, a much stronger joint. 3rd, with a sweated joint, the solder is much thinner and thereby more flexible resulting in a joint that is less subject to fatigue damage (there is less of a "hard spot" that tends to maximize fatigue damage). However, while tucking makes stronger panel, it has nothing to do with what the support bars do and thereby you should not reduce the number of support bars. An analogy would be "if I wear really great waterproof boots on my feet, I don't need an umbrella when it rains".



 Posted: Tue May 10th, 2016 05:18 pm
   PM  Quote  Reply 
3rd Post
Vic
Founder


Joined: Thu Sep 14th, 2006
Location: Bronxville, New York USA
Posts: 743
Status: 
Offline

  back to top

not only should you tuck. BUT in diamond (and other designs) you should also "weave"the leads for added strength.
An analogy would be "because I bob and weave, I can't get hit and that makes me stronger"??????



 Posted: Fri May 13th, 2016 09:34 am
   PM  Quote  Reply 
4th Post
MattKolenda
AGG Member


Joined: Wed May 22nd, 2013
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan USA
Posts: 5
Status: 
Offline

  back to top

We tuck as often as our lead selection will allow. With a bit of practice you'll find this method can actually be easier and faster than butt joints. Certainly when it comes time to solder the panel and you need to make adjustments, as Art mentioned. You'll want to use a soft composition of lead such as DHD's "commercial" grade. In our experience dealing with the repair of old windows, we have definitely noticed panels that were tucked consistently require less attention. Resist the temptation to close the leads until the panel is complete and you're fine tuning your lines while your iron warms up.



 Current time is 11:00 am
Top




UltraBB 1.17 Copyright © 2007-2011 Data 1 Systems